Enter the date of birth to see which phase your puppy is in, what to do this week and how to handle the usual issues with rewards, never punishment. Print the fridge sheet.
Your puppy
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Enter the date of birth to see the phase and the weekly checklist.
The phases of the first year
The ages are approximate: every dog and breed has its own pace and some phases overlap.
Arriving home
8–12 weeks (2–3 months)
Everything is new: the goal is a calm, predictable routine and positive first experiences.
A puppy should not leave its mother and littermates before 8 weeks (ideally around 10).
First vet visit in the first days: check-up, vaccines, deworming, microchip.
A fixed routine for meals, toilet breaks, play and plenty of sleep, in a quiet corner with a bed or crate.
Gentle touching of paws, ears and mouth with a treat, so that check-ups and brushing become pleasant.
Few visitors in the first week: the puppy needs time to settle in.
The critical socialisation window
about 3 to 12–14 weeks
Now the puppy finds it easiest to learn that the world is safe. It does not shut suddenly, but later the work gets harder.
Introduce it to many people (children, men, women, hats, uniforms) and calm, friendly dogs you know.
Sounds (vacuum cleaner, doorbell, traffic), surfaces (tiles, grass, stairs, grates) and the car, in small doses.
Every experience should end well: a treat, a game, and stop if it gets scared. Do not push it.
Vaccination: ask your vet when it is safe to walk in public places. Until then carry it in your arms or in a bag and arrange visits with healthy, vaccinated dogs you know.
A well-run puppy class with healthy, vaccinated puppies can help, only with your vet's approval.
Learning, teething and independence
3–6 months
The puppy grows fast and becomes more independent. What it learned early lasts; what it has not learned gets harder.
Toilet: most puppies can last the night by 3–4 months, but reliability takes months.
Mouthing and teething: steady chew toys and pausing play when teeth touch skin.
Name, sit, come and loose-leash walking: short exercises with treats.
Short alone-time practice that grows slowly, so that separation anxiety does not develop.
Keep introducing new people, places and sounds: socialisation does not stop at 14 weeks.
Fear periods
about 4–11 months, 2–3 weeks at a time
At times the puppy may suddenly get scared of things it knew, even familiar objects. It usually passes on its own if you do not push it.
Keep a distance from what it fears and give treats while it looks at it calmly.
Do not drag it towards the object and do not scold it: a bad experience now lasts longer.
Carry on with the normal routine and easy, pleasant exercises.
If the fear is intense or does not fade, talk to your vet.
Adolescence
6–12 months
Limits that get "forgotten", lots of energy and selective hearing. This is normal: keep training, do not give up.
Enough daily exercise and play: boredom is a common cause of problems.
Short exercises every day, with rewards and the same rules from everyone at home.
Sexual maturity usually arrives at 5–14 months, depending on the dog and breed, and social maturity later.
When to neuter is a conversation with your vet: it depends on breed, size, sex and family. It does not automatically solve behaviour problems.
Topics that concern everyone
Reward-based methods only: no punishment, no choke, prong or shock collars.
Toilet training
A puppy learns quickly where to go if you take it out at the right moments and reward it straight away.
Do
Take it out to the same spot after sleeping, eating, drinking and playing, and often enough in between.
Stay outside until it goes and reward straight away (treat, praise) before going back in.
Watch for the signs (sniffing, circling, sneaking off): if you see them, take it out immediately.
When you cannot watch it, keep it in a safe area or crate, after it has been out and played.
Clean accidents with an odour-neutralising product so it does not return to the same spot.
Avoid
Do not scold it, rub its nose in the accident or punish it in any way.
Do not punish it if you find an accident later: it will not understand why.
Do not keep it shut in for longer than it can hold on.
Count in months, not weeks. A 3-month-old can wait about 4 hours at most and a 4-month-old about 5, but that should be the exception. Relax the supervision only after 4 consecutive weeks without an accident. Sudden accidents, frequent urination or diarrhoea need a vet check.
Crate and bed
The crate can become its favourite hideout, and it will need it at some point in life (transport, after surgery).
Do
Make it a pleasant place: food and treats inside, hidden treats to find, door open at first.
Close the door for a few minutes and extend the time gradually.
Size: enough to stand, turn around and lie down.
For the first nights put the bed near you, and take it out for a toilet break when needed.
Avoid
Do not use the crate as punishment.
Do not leave it inside for many hours: a puppy cannot cope.
Do not close it in when it is already upset or has not been out for the toilet.
It usually takes weeks for it to love it. If it howls or panics, go back to smaller steps and ask for advice.
Biting and mouthing
Puppies use their mouths to play and explore, and chew to develop their teeth and jaws. It needs teaching, not punishment.
Do
When teeth touch skin, pause the play briefly, offer a chew toy and carry on when it calms down.
Reward a soft mouth and play with toys rather than hands.
Always have safe chew toys (rubber or nylon).
Make sure it gets exercise and sleep: a tired or overexcited puppy bites more.
Hide or block off anything it should not chew (cables, shoes, small objects).
Avoid
Do not hit, squeeze its mouth or pin it to the floor: it can make it fearful or aggressive.
Do not play rough hand games or encourage growling at your hands.
Do not give rawhide or bones: they can damage the digestive tract.
It decreases gradually with consistent training and as the teeth change (until about 6–7 months). Destructive chewing is age-appropriate and fades with maturity.
Preventing separation anxiety
The puppy comes from a life with its mother and littermates. Teach it early, gradually, that being alone is safe.
Do
Start with a few minutes in the crate or its own space, with a food-filled toy, while you are at home.
Then step out for a very short time and come back, and extend the time slowly.
Shortly before leaving, do not interact with it, and keep arrivals and departures calm.
Before a separation make sure it has had exercise and a toilet break.
Avoid
Do not make a big fuss when you leave and when you return.
Do not suddenly leave it for many hours.
Do not punish it for noise or damage when you get back: it will not understand and the anxiety will grow.
It builds over weeks. Constant howling, panting, drooling, destruction or accidents only when alone that do not improve need a talk with your vet.
Fear of noises
Fireworks, thunder and loud sounds are a common cause of fear. Early, gradual exposure helps.
Do
Play recordings (thunder, fireworks) at very low volume during meals or play.
Raise the volume very slowly, over weeks, and only if the puppy stays relaxed.
Have a safe corner (bed or crate in a quiet room) always available. Close the windows and play music or TV.
Stay calm and close when it is scared.
Prepare early for the known dates (Easter, New Year, festivals, storms).
Avoid
Do not take it to fireworks or loud noises to make it "get used to it".
Do not scold or punish it for being afraid.
Do not leave it alone outside or in a yard when fireworks are expected.
Exposure takes weeks and works best when started young, before 6 months. If the fear is intense (shaking, drooling, trying to escape, hiding for hours, refusing food), talk to your vet early, well before the known dates: there are solutions.
Leash walking
A dog that walks calmly on the leash gets out more, which reduces behaviour problems.
Do
Get it used to a collar or harness and leash indoors first, with treats.
Keep sessions short. Reward when the leash is slack and it is next to you.
Stop every time it pulls and move on only when the leash goes slack; change direction.
Until vaccination is complete practise in the garden or indoors.
Avoid
Do not jerk the leash and do not use choke, prong or shock collars.
Do not leave the dog unsupervised with a leash on: it can get tangled and injured.
Do not expect perfect behaviour around distractions from the first day.
It takes months of practice and often slips back during adolescence. Carry on patiently.
Jumping up on people
The puppy jumps for attention. Whatever earns it attention, it will repeat.
Do
Take a step back or turn away so that it lands on its feet, then ask for a sit and reward.
Give attention and petting when all four paws are on the floor or it is sitting.
Ask visitors to ignore it until it calms down.
Avoid
Do not push it with your knee or hands, and do not shout at it: that is attention too.
Do not allow jumping one time and forbid it the next.
It fades in weeks if everyone is consistent. Expect to practise again in adolescence.
Car trips
The first trips decide whether the car is pleasant or scary. Not all of them should end at the vet.
Do
Start with a few minutes in the parked car with treats, then a very short drive.
Let the first trips end somewhere pleasant (play, a visit to a friend).
Secure it in a crate or with a harness and seat belt.
Bring a towel, water and treats.
Avoid
Never alone in a parked car, especially in summer: heatstroke strikes within minutes.
Do not let it travel loose in the car or with its head out of the window.
Do not start with a long drive.
Most habits build within a few weeks. If it is regularly car-sick or distressed, ask your vet.
Children and puppies
A puppy needs to learn to be gentle with people, and children need to learn how to touch it.
Do
Always with adult supervision and in short, calm moments.
Teach children to sit down, let the puppy come to them and stroke it gently on the chest or back.
Give the puppy its own quiet space where nobody disturbs it.
Let children give treats for calm behaviour.
Avoid
Do not leave young children alone with the puppy.
No tight hugs, carrying or chasing, and no disturbing it while it eats or sleeps.
Do not encourage rough games or games that make it growl.
The rules apply from day one. Supervision with young children continues for years, not only while it is a puppy.
Meeting a cat
The introduction needs time and safety for the cat. There is no reason to hurry.
Do
Keep their rooms separate at first and swap scents (e.g. a blanket).
First contact through a door or gate, with the puppy on a leash and treats for calm behaviour.
The cat should always have high places and hiding spots the puppy cannot reach.
Keep the cat's litter box and food where the puppy cannot reach.
Avoid
Do not force the cat to meet the puppy and do not hold it in your lap.
Do not let the puppy chase the cat.
Do not leave them alone until you are sure they are calm together.
From days to weeks, depending on the cat. If either of them shows intense fear or aggression, ask for advice.
When to ask for help
Some behaviours are not "just a phase". The earlier you ask for help, the easier they are to improve.
Contact your vet when
It growls, freezes or bites with real intent (not play), especially over food, toys or when touched.
It has intense fear: it shakes, hides, refuses to eat or tries to escape.
It hurts itself (scratching, biting paws or tail, spinning).
Its behaviour changes suddenly (e.g. aggression, accidents, apathy): this may be due to pain or illness.
Its distress when left alone does not improve after a few weeks of practice.
Do not
Do not try to discipline it with punishment or physical force: it may provoke an attack.
Do not wait for it to "grow out of it" if the problem is getting worse.
Do not use shock, prong or choke collars.
Your vet first checks for medical causes and, if needed, guides you to a trainer or behaviour specialist.
The information is general and indicative. For behaviour problems talk to your veterinarian: every dog is different and a change in behaviour can have a medical cause.
